The Short Answer: It Cuts Metal, But Not Like a CNC
If you're looking at the xTool F1 Ultra because you've seen those videos of it carving into a knife blade, and you're thinking 'that's exactly what I need to start a metal fab side-hustle'—stop. It won't replace a fiber laser marker or a CNC. What it will do is mark and engrave metals (including stainless steel, aluminum, and even anodized aluminum), cut thin (think less than 0.5mm) metals like foil and brass shim stock, and handle wood, acrylic, and plastic like a champ. Its strength is versatility, not brute force. I'm a product designer who regularly needs quick prototypes in mixed materials, and after three months of daily use, here's the real story. The dual laser (diode for organics, fiber for metals) is genuinely cool, but the software is where you'll either love it or want to throw it out the window.
Why You Should Trust Me On This
I'm a freelance product designer. In my role coordinating rapid prototyping for small-batch electronics enclosures, I've handled over 50 rush orders in the last two years. In March 2024, I had a client call at 9 PM needing a custom brass plate for a trade show display due the next morning. Normal turnaround for a laser-cut brass plate is 2-3 days via online services. I used the F1 Ultra to cut the design myself, paid $0 in rush fees (aside from my own time), and delivered it by 11 AM. The client's alternative was a $1,200 blank display with no branding. That single job paid for half the machine. So when I say 'the F1 Ultra is a tool for specific emergencies,' I mean it.
The Setup: More Fiddly Than I Expected
To be fair, getting the dual laser calibrated took me about 90 minutes, not the 20 the quick-start guide suggests. The issue? The fiber laser's focal point is way more precise than the diode. I set the height for the diode (for wood), then switched to fiber for a stainless steel dog tag, and got a ghost mark. I only understood after re-reading the manual: you have to manually adjust the Z-axis for each laser type. The auto-focus sensor doesn't account for the different laser paths. It's a kind of annoying extra step. But once you build the muscle memory, it takes 30 seconds.
The Material You'll Actually Use
- Wood & Acrylic: Perfect. The diode laser cuts 3mm plywood in one pass at 80% power. This is where the machine shines. I've made dozens of prototypes for product packaging.
- Stainless Steel & Titanium: The fiber laser marks them beautifully. But 'cutting' is a misnomer. You're etching deep. I tried to cut a 1mm stainless steel sheet—the fiber laser eventually did it after 8 passes, but it left ugly brown residue. Use this for engraving logos, not cutting thickness.
- Thin Brass & Shims: The fiber laser cuts 0.2mm brass shim stock perfectly. This is where the 'cut metal' claim is true. For thin, precise industrial parts, it's fantastic.
The Software: xTool Creative Space (XCS) - Love/Hate
I have a love-hate relationship with XCS. It's free, which is great. But it's somewhat crash-prone. I lost a 30-minute engraving file once because the app didn't auto-save. That was a penny-wise-pound-foolish moment on my part—I should have saved manually. The layout is intuitive if you've used LightBurn, but the setting for 'dithering' vs 'halftone' is buried. You'll spend time learning its quirks.
If you're doing production work, use LightBurn instead. It's $60, but it's more stable and gives you better control over layers and power mapping. The F1 Ultra is LightBurn-compatible. I'd argue that if you're a professional, the $60 software license is a necessary cost of doing business. To be fair, XCS works fine for simple jobs. But for complex, multi-layer, multi-material projects, LightBurn is non-negotiable.
The Real Cost: It's Not Just $1,500
Here's what I wish someone told me. The base machine is $1,500 (F1 Ultra). But to actually use the fiber laser for metal, you need the Rotary Attachment ($150) for cylindrical objects and the Air Assist ($99) to keep the lens clean and prevent fires. Also, the included honeycomb bed is small (about 4x4 inches for the fiber). If you want to cut a 4x6 piece of wood with the diode, you're fine. But for the fiber, expect tiny work envelopes. Total cost of ownership: about $1,800 before materials.
I saved $80 by skipping the Air Assist initially. Ended up spending $400 on a replacement lens when smoke residue baked onto it. Net loss: $320. The cheap option looked smart until the problem. That's the second lesson: the accessories are not optional.
Who Is This Actually For?
You're a small business owner or a one-person prototyping shop who needs to do quick, dirty work in multiple materials. You need to engrave a logo on a metal pen and cut a wooden plaque in the same afternoon. You value time certainty over price. The F1 Ultra gives you that versatility.
Who Should Pass? Anyone who wants to do production-run metal cutting, or who wants a 'set it and forget it' machine. Also, if you're a small customer who is hesitant about buying expensive gear—I get it. When I was starting out, the suppliers who treated my $200 orders seriously are the ones I still use for $20,000 orders. The F1 Ultra is that tool for me. It's a small investment that pays off in flexibility.
The Bottom Line
I've tested a ton of desktop lasers. The F1 Ultra is the most versatile I've used under $2,000. It's not perfect—the software is neurotic, and the work envelope is small. But it's the only machine I'd take into a true, last-minute client emergency. If you need a tool that can do both metal marking and wood cutting today, get it. If you need a production machine for one material, look elsewhere. Just don't skip the Air Assist.
