How to Master the xTool F1 Ultra: Coin & Color Engraving, Mobile Use, and Stone Settings

Everything I'd read about mobile laser engravers said you had to compromise—either you got portability or power, but never both. In practice, after testing the xTool F1 Ultra across a dozen rush orders (including a last-minute batch of personalized stone coasters for a wedding that went sideways), I found that wasn't true at all.

What I mean is this: the dual laser system—fiber + diode in one unit—actually delivers on the promise. It's not perfect for everything. But for the jobs I'm asked to triage, from metallic nameplates to glassware, it's been surprisingly reliable.

Here's the three-part checklist I now use when prepping an F1 Ultra for a job. Whether you're engraving coins, chasing color effects, or setting up on a client site, this should save you the trial-and-error I went through.

Before You Start: What This Checklist Is For

This is for anyone who needs to get consistent results fast. If you're a small business owner, a hobbyist turning side gigs into revenue, or a production manager who just got handed an F1 Ultra and told to figure it out—this is for you.

I've organized it into three scenarios:
1. Coin and metal engraving (where the fiber laser shines)
2. Color engraving on anodized aluminum or stainless steel (chasing those dark/bright marks)
3. Mobile operation and stone settings (because clients don't bring their materials to you)

Each section gives you the settings I use, the gotchas I've hit, and a quick check at the end.

Also—if you're in the UK and watching your budget, I'll explain why the xTool F1 Ultra is one of the best budget laser engravers I've found for under £1500. More on that at the end.

Part 1: Coin & Metal Engraving with the Fiber Laser

Step 1: Confirm Your Lens and Focus

The F1 Ultra comes with a 150mm×150mm work area for the fiber laser. For coins, I almost always use the fiber laser (not the diode) because it cuts through metal alloys cleanly. Standard focus height is around 190mm from the surface—check the manual for your specific material thickness.

Quick tip: if you're switching from the diode to the fiber, re-check your focus. The focal points are different, and I've ruined a batch of challenge coins by forgetting this.

Step 2: Pick Your Settings (The Ones That Actually Work)

Based on my tests across brass, copper, stainless steel, and silver-plated coins:

• Power: 80–100% for deep engraving on brass or stainless. For softer metals like silver, drop to 60–70% to avoid burnishing.
• Speed: 100–150 mm/s for detailed text or logos. Slower (50–80 mm/s) gives deeper cuts but can cause edge blurring.
• Passes: 1–3 passes depending on depth. For a brushed finish, 1 pass at 100% power is usually sufficient.

What I learned the hard way: Everything I'd read said to use maximum power for metal. In practice, for small-format coins under 30mm, too much power creates a rough surface that looks unprofessional. Dial it back to 85% and let speed do the work.

Also—enable air assist. It keeps the lens clean and reduces oxidation marks. Simple but easy to skip.

Step 3: Test on a Scrap Piece

I know. This sounds obvious. But when you're on a rush job and the clock is ticking, it's tempting to skip. Don't. Spend two minutes engraving a test line on the same material. If the contrast looks sharp and the depth is consistent, proceed. If not, adjust power by 5% increments.

Check: Is your engraving visible under normal lighting? If you have to tilt the coin or use a bright light to read the text, bump up power or add a pass.

Part 2: Color Engraving on Anodized Aluminum & Stainless Steel

Step 1: Understand 'Color' vs. 'Marking'

The xTool F1 Ultra can produce colors—mostly on anodized aluminum and certain stainless steels. But it's not a full-color laser printer. The colors come from oxidation and heat interaction with the anodized layer or metal surface.

For anodized aluminum: you're bleaching the dye layer. Higher power removes the color (white/silver mark), lower power darkens it (black/dark brown). The 'in between' powers give shades of gray, blue, or bronze depending on your specific material.

Step 2: Settings for Color Effects

When I compared a power ramp test at 20W fiber vs. the 10W diode setting side by side, I finally understood why the dual laser matters for color work:

• Fiber laser (for stainless steel):
  - Power: 30–50%
  - Speed: 200–300 mm/s
  - Frequency: 60–80 kHz
  - Result: Gives a dark, almost black mark on stainless. For 'color' (blues/purples), try 40% power, 200 mm/s, 70 kHz. It's subtle.
• Diode laser (for anodized aluminum):
  - Power: 40–60%
  - Speed: 100–150 mm/s
  - Result: Standard white/silver mark. If you want dark marks, increase power to 70–80%, but watch for burn-through.

Contrast insight: Seeing the fiber and diode results side by side made me realize the fiber is better for permanent marks on metals, while the diode gives you more control for decorative effects. Use each for its strength.

Step 3: Clean Your Surface

Oils from your hands affect color consistency. Wipe the material with isopropyl alcohol before engraving. I forgot this on a batch of 50 anodized aluminum plates for a client last quarter, and 20% of them had uneven coloring. That was expensive.

Check: Is your color consistent across the entire engraved area? If you see streaks or patchiness, you likely need a cleaner surface or a more consistent power setting.

Part 3: Mobile Operation & Stone Settings

Step 1: Set Up for Mobile Use

The xTool F1 Ultra is advertised as a mobile laser engraver, and it is portable—roughly the size of a shoebox and weighing about 5 kg. But 'mobile' doesn't mean 'set up anywhere without thinking.' Here's what I do:

• Find a level, stable surface. The laser head moves fast, and vibration ruins fine details.
• Ensure power access: the unit uses a standard AC adapter, but if you're working on-site without a wall outlet, you'll need a portable power station. I've used a Jackery 240—lasts about 2 hours of continuous use.
• Connect via Wi-Fi or USB. Wi-Fi can be finicky in industrial settings with lots of interference. I default to USB for consistent connectivity.

What I should have done differently: At a client site in March 2024, I set up on a flimsy table. The engraving came out with visible jitter. Wasted 90 minutes and a piece of slate. Now I carry a small folding table with rubber feet. Lesson learned.

Step 2: Stone Engraving Settings

Stone is tricky because it's brittle and heat-sensitive. For granite, slate, or marble, I use the diode laser (not fiber) because the wavelength absorbs better:

• Power: 70–90%
• Speed: 80–120 mm/s
• Passes: 2–3 for deep contrast. 1 pass for a lighter mark.
• Air assist: Always on. It keeps the stone dust from settling on the lens.

Common mistake: Going too slow. If you drop below 50 mm/s on slate, the heat buildup can cause micro-cracking. I've lost four tiles this way. Speed up and add passes instead.

Also—stone varies wildly. A 'granite' tile from a big-box store might be engineered stone, which engraves differently. Test first if you're unsure.

Step 3: Positioning and Fixturing

For stone and irregular objects (like river rocks or slate coasters), use the included honeycomb bed or a rotary attachment. I've found that double-sided tape is your best friend for small, flat stones. For larger pieces, try a jig made from scrap wood.

Check that the object isn't moving during engraving. A shift of even 0.1mm is visible on detailed work.

Check: Before starting, run the laser in 'frame' mode to confirm the engraving area. This saves you from finding out halfway through that your text is off-center.

Why the xTool F1 Ultra Is a Top Budget Laser Engraver in the UK

If you're in the UK and looking for the best budget laser engraver, here's why the F1 Ultra stands out:

• Dual laser in one unit: You get fiber for metals and diode for organics without buying two machines. That's a huge saving vs. alternatives that cost £2,500+ for separate systems.
• Price: As of January 2025, the F1 Ultra is around £1,199–£1,349 depending on retailer. For a 20W fiber + 20W diode, that's exceptional value.
• Small footprint: Lives on a desk, packs in a bag. If you're in a tight workshop or city apartment (common in UK cities), that matters.
• Good support: xTool's UK distributor handles returns and warranty without the nightmare of cross-Atlantic shipping.

Caveat: It's not a replacement for a CO2 laser. If your primary work is cutting thick acrylic or engraving large surfaces, look elsewhere. But for the small-batch, multi-material jobs that small businesses need, it's hard to beat.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

After 40+ jobs with the F1 Ultra, here's what I see people (myself included) getting wrong:

• Not adjusting for material batch variance: Even the same product (e.g., 'black anodized aluminum') from different suppliers reacts differently. Always test.
• Skipping the focus check: The autofocus is decent, but I've gotten better results manually fine-tuning by 1–2mm.
• Using the wrong laser for the job: Fiber for plastic? Diode for steel? Check the material compatibility chart first.
• Ignoring ventilation: An air purifier or exhaust is essential. Especially for stone dust and metal fumes.

Last thing: The xTool F1 Ultra doesn't do 'arbitrary material' engraving. It's excellent within its range. Push beyond it, and you'll waste materials and time.

Your Next Step

If you've made it this far, you've got the settings and the gotchas. Now pick one material—coins, anodized aluminum, or stone—and run a test piece. Adjust based on what you see. Keep notes for next time.

I've got a Google Sheet with my tried-and-tested profiles for 30+ materials. If I can share it with you via a comment or update, just ask. But for now, this checklist should get you 90% of the way there.

Good luck. And if you mess up on a rush order? Don't worry. I've been there. You'll learn faster.