The xtool F1 Ultra: An Administrator’s Honest Take on Dual-Laser Value (2025 Edition)

What the xtool F1 Ultra Is (and Isn't) for a Busy Shop

When I took over purchasing in 2020 for our 40-person manufacturing support firm, I learned the hard way that a spec sheet doesn't tell you the whole story. The xtool F1 Ultra caught my eye because it promised a 20W fiber and 20W diode laser in one box. From the outside, it looks like just another laser engraver. The reality is more nuanced.

People assume a dual-laser setup means you can cut everything. What they don't see is the steep learning curve for materials like clear acrylic or mirrored glass. It's tempting to think you can just swap lasers and go. But the software settings and material prep change completely.

So, here's my take as the person who actually has to buy this thing, set it up for our team, and not get roasted by accounting when the invoice comes in.

1. Can the xtool F1 Ultra Cut Steel?

Look, I get why people search for a laser cutting machine for steel. We've had requests from our design team for thin metal prototypes. The xtool F1 Ultra's 20W fiber laser can mark and engrave on stainless steel and some thin metals. But cutting? It's not a plasma cutter.

The official specs (as of January 2025) show it can cut thin metal sheets—we're talking 0.5mm to 1mm max for soft metals like aluminum foil or thin brass shim stock. For structural steel, you'll need a different tool. The most frustrating part of researching this: you see YouTube videos of people cutting a soda can, and you think, 'Great, it cuts metal.' Then reality hits when you try a 2mm steel bracket.

Here's the thing: if you need to cut steel for brackets or frames, budget for a fiber laser cutter with 50W+ or a CO2 laser. The F1 Ultra is for marking, engraving, and very light cutting. It's not your CNC replacement.

2. What Are the Best xtool F1 Ultra Glass Engraving Settings?

This was a huge question for us. Glass engraving is a bread-and-butter request for personalized gifts and branded items. The F1 Ultra handles it well, but the settings aren't a one-size-fits-all.

Based on our testing in Q3 2024:

• Material Type: Standard soda-lime glass (like beer mugs or bottles) is easiest. Borosilicate (Pyrex) needs slower speeds.
• Laser Choice: Use the Diode laser for glass. The fiber laser can mark some glass, but it's riskier for cracking.
• Power & Speed: Start at 60% power, 1500 mm/min speed, 0.2mm per pass. This gives a frosty white engraving. Increase power to 70% if you want deeper contrast.
• Focus: The bed size on the F1 Ultra is 395x395mm, but for curved glass like tumblers, you'll need the rotary attachment. Setting the correct focus (0.05mm offset for curved surfaces) is critical.

Why does this matter? Because the wrong settings waste material and time. The 'just use 80% power' advice ignores the fact that glass is a thermal insulator—too much heat and you get micro-cracks.

3. What Is the xtool F1 Ultra Bed Size, and Does It Matter?

The xtool f1 ultra bed size is 395x395mm (15.6x15.6 inches). For our work, this is big enough for 90% of our tasks: small plaques, phone cases, laptop covers, nameplates. But if you plan on cutting large acrylic sheets or engraving full-size signs, this machine will feel cramped.

I initially thought, 'We can just tile the work.' And you can, but it adds setup time and alignment errors. The $500 quote for a larger machine turned into $800 after shipping and setup fees. The smaller bed on the F1 Ultra saved us that upfront cost, but it means we outsource larger jobs to a vendor.

Between you and me, for our use case (small parts and personalization), the bed size is fine. If you are a sign shop making 20x30 inch panels, you need a larger machine.

4. Which Laser Engraving Design Software Do You Actually Need?

A common question I get: laser engraving design software. The F1 Ultra comes with XCS (xtool Creative Space). It's... okay. It works for basic designs and has a decent material library with recommended settings for glass, wood, leather, and acrylic.

But for real work, you'll want additional software. Our team uses:

• LightBurn: This is the gold standard for CO2 and diode lasers. It imports SVGs, DXF, and even AI files natively. It's $60 one-time. The control over power curves and layers is vastly superior to XCS.
• Adobe Illustrator: For design creation, not laser control. We design in Illustrator and import into LightBurn.

The simplification in most online guides is to just use XCS. That's fine for a hobbyist. For production work, you'll find yourself fighting the software limits. The $60 for LightBurn saved our team about 5 hours a month in wasted trial-and-error.

5. What Is the Best Tool to Cut Acrylic Sheet?

Best tool to cut acrylic sheet depends on thickness. For 3mm clear or colored acrylic, the F1 Ultra's diode laser (with the blue light, or a CO2 laser on a different system) works well. The key is to use the right settings to avoid melting or crazing.

• For 1-3mm acrylic: Diode laser works, but you'll need edge polishing after. Cut at 80% power, 200mm/min. Use the air assist (included with the F1 Ultra kit) to keep the cut clear.
• For 5mm+ acrylic: The diode laser will struggle and leave a rough edge. The fiber laser can't cut clear acrylic well because the wavelength passes through it. You need a CO2 laser or a physical saw for thick sheets.

After the third time I ruined a 5mm sheet because of 'try it yourself' forum advice, I was ready to give up. What finally helped is accepting that the F1 Ultra is not a universal acrylic cutter. It's great for thin, colored acrylic (especially for small parts) but for thick clear sheet? Outsource or use a different machine.

6. Is the xtool F1 Ultra Worth It for a Small Business? (TCO Thinking)

People assume the comparison is just the machine price. The real cost is: machine + accessories (rotary, air assist, honeycomb tray) + software + materials + training time + failed materials.

We evaluated it against other desktop lasers. The F1 Ultra's dual-laser system (fiber + diode) is a unique selling point. A separate fiber laser and diode laser would cost easily $4,000+. The F1 Ultra is around $2,500-3,000 (as of January 2025; verify pricing at xtool.com).

The question isn't 'Is it cheap?' It's 'What is the total cost of ownership?' Our calculation:

• Machine: $2,800
• Rotary: $350
• Air assist (included): $0
• LightBurn license: $60
• Material waste (first 3 months): $500 (we ruined a lot of acrylic and glass)
• Total TCO (first year): ~$3,710

Compare that to buying a dedicated fiber laser ($4,000) and a diode laser ($1,500) and you have a clear winner. The F1 Ultra consolidates two tools into one. The lower TCO is why I chose it.

7. What Should You Know Before Buying?

A few non-obvious things I wish someone told me:

• It's not plug-and-play for advanced materials. Expect 2-4 weeks of learning curve for glass and acrylic.
• The air assist is mandatory. Don't think you can skip it. It keeps the lens clean and improves cut quality.
• File a business license for commercial use. We got a request for 200 engraved glass mugs. Without business licensing (which is standard), you can't claim the equipment expense.

In my 2024 vendor consolidation project, the F1 Ultra replaced two separate machines and reduced our ordering time for custom parts by about 30%. Is it perfect? No. But for the total cost and flexibility, it's the best tool we've found for small-to-medium batch prototyping and personalization.