If you're coming from a standard diode laser (like the xTool 10W), the F1 Ultra 20W isn't just an upgrade — it's a completely different machine that will punish you for applying old habits. I learned this the hard way over three separate orders totaling about $1,200 in wasted material and rework.
Here's the thing: the F1 Ultra's dual-laser setup (fiber + diode) is its killer feature, but it's also the most common source of mistakes. People treat the fiber laser like a more powerful diode laser, which is a fast track to frustration.
The core rule: Always, always verify which laser module you're using before setting up a job. The wrong choice on a $50 piece of material can ruin it in seconds. That might sound obvious, but I've done it twice — most recently in February 2024 on a run of 24 personalized stainless steel water bottles. Loaded the file, hit start, watched the diode laser do… effectively nothing for 20 seconds before I hit the emergency stop. Wasted time, wasted material prep, and a delay on the client order.
My Setup and Why I Document Everything Now
My role involves handling custom engraving orders for small business clients — mostly promotional items, personalized gifts, and small production runs. I've been doing this for about three years. In my first year (2021), I made the classic mistake of not checking the laser type on a 50-piece acrylic order. The result was a mix of burned and untouched pieces. That was a $320 mistake and a lesson that stuck.
(Quick aside: the xTool software interface is actually pretty good at flagging this now, but older versions weren't as clear. I should add that keeping your software updated is a basic step most people skip.)
Since then, I've developed a pre-flight checklist. Here's what it covers:
- Material: Confirm it's compatible with the selected laser.
- Laser Module: Diode for organics (wood, acrylic, leather), fiber for metals and some plastics.
- Focus: Correct for the material and laser type. The fiber laser's focus is much more sensitive than the diode.
- Test Grid: Unless it's a one-off piece of known material, run a test grid for power/speed. This alone has saved me from at least six major mistakes.
This checklist took about an hour to create and has already saved me from wasting material, I'd guess around $800 worth in the last year.
The Dual Laser: Where People Go Wrong
The F1 Ultra has a fiber laser (for metals, engraving on stainless steel, aluminum, some plastics) and a diode laser (for wood, acrylic, leather, anodized aluminum, etc.). The machine switches between them, which is incredibly useful. But it also means you have to know which laser to use for which material.
Here's where most people get tripped up:
- Treating the fiber laser like a diode laser for cutting: The fiber laser is primarily for engraving metals and marking plastics. It's not meant for cutting materials like 3mm plywood. If you try, you'll get a shallow mark at best and potentially damage the material. Use the diode for cutting wood and acrylic.
- Assuming the 20W diode is the same as the 10W version: The 20W diode is more powerful, but it's not just faster. The kerf (cut width) and focus depth are different. Settings you used on the 10W model for cutting 3mm plywood will likely be too aggressive on the 20W, leading to deeper charring or a wider cut. Always recalibrate settings.
- Using the wrong laser for anodized aluminum: This is a common one. Diode lasers work great on colored anodized aluminum (it bleaches the dye). The fiber laser will engrave into the metal itself. Which you choose depends on the desired effect: a white mark (diode on colored anodized) vs. a dark engraved line (fiber).
I once had a client who wanted their logo on a batch of blue anodized aluminum keychains. I quickly set up the fiber laser by habit. Engraved 50 keychains with a slightly dark, very clean mark. The client was happy, but they were expecting a white mark. That was a 50-minute redo (thankfully the fiber engraving was shallow enough to sand off cleanly on a test piece). Lesson: ask the client what they expect visually, not just what they want engraved.
Specific Material Settings (From My Lab Notebook)
These are starting points I've dialed in. Your mileage will vary with material batch, humidity, and focus. Always, always test.
Acrylic (with Diode Laser)
- Cutting (3mm clear cast acrylic): Power 80%, Speed 15mm/s, 1 pass. Key point: Cast acrylic cuts clear; extruded acrylic cuts with a frosted edge. Most suppliers sell cast for laser cutting.
- Engraving (6mm black acrylic): Power 40%, Speed 250mm/s. This gives a clean, raised white mark with minimal melting.
Stainless Steel (with Fiber Laser)
- Engraving (mirror finish): Power 70%, Speed 800mm/s, frequency 60kHz. This creates a dark, permanent mark. For a black mark on stainless steel, you need a special marking spray or get the settings just right. The fiber laser is your only option here.
- Deep engraving (e.g., serial numbers): Multiple passes at 80% power, 100mm/s, 50kHz. Expect to slow down significantly. It's not a quick process.
Wood (3mm Basswood Plywood, with Diode)
- Cutting: Power 90%, Speed 12mm/s, 2 passes. The 20W diode cuts faster than the 10W, but on thicker pieces, multiple passes with a lower speed give a cleaner edge than one high-power pass.
- Engraving (photo): Power 50%, Speed 2500mm/s. Test your dithering settings. A lower dpi (200) can produce a more natural look than a super high-resolution binary scan.
What most people don't realize is that the “standard” settings in the software are often conservative to prevent damage. They're a starting point at best, not a final answer. I've had to adjust power by 20% for different batches of the same material
The Glass Engraving Problem (and xTool P2 Specifics)
Engraving glass is a different beast. You'll see searches for 'xTool p2 glass engraving settings.' The P2 is a CO2 laser, which is ideal for glass. The F1 Ultra, especially the diode laser, will struggle with standard glass. It can mark coated glass or use a marking spray. But you'll get much better results from a CO2 laser. So, for glass engraving, the F1 Ultra is not the right tool. It's a limitation of the platform. That's okay.
Honest advice: if your primary business is glassware, get a CO2 laser or a dedicated glass marking system. The F1 Ultra is for everything else: metals, plastics, wood, acrylic, leather. It's a generalist, not a specialist.
Plasma Dross? Wrong Tool, Wrong Problem
I saw a related search for 'plasma cutting dross.' Dross is the resolidified metal on the edge of a plasma cut. It's a problem with plasma cutting steel. The F1 Ultra is a laser engraver/cutter. It doesn't produce "dross" in the same way. The F1 Ultra can cut thin metals (stainless steel up to 0.5mm) with the fiber laser. The edge quality on these cuts is very clean, with minimal burr. If you're dealing with plasma dross on thick steel plates, you're solving the wrong problem with the F1 Ultra.
To be clear: the F1 Ultra's fiber laser can cut thin metal sheets, but it's not a replacement for a plasma cutter on 1/4-inch steel plate. Different tools for different jobs.
When the F1 Ultra is (and Isn't) the Right Answer
I recommend the F1 Ultra 20W for:
- Productivity-focused small businesses that need a single machine for both metal engraving and general cutting/engraving on wood and acrylic.
- Hobbyists who want to dabble in metal engraving without buying a dedicated fiber laser.
- Producing small batches of personalized metal items (water bottles, tags, tools).
But it's not the right tool for:
- Large-scale acrylic cutting (you'd want a CO2 laser with a larger bed).
- Deep engraving on thick metal parts (a fiber laser with a higher wattage and galvo head is faster).
- High-volume production of small, flat metal parts (a dedicated fiber galvo is far more efficient).
The F1 Ultra is a jack-of-all-trades, master of several. Accept its limitations, and it will serve you very well.
Per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), claims about product capabilities should be substantiated with testing. My experience is based on ~200 hours of use on this specific unit. Your results may vary based on material, environment, and software version.
